89 Suburban won't start

[alarman]

Hello, group:
I have a 1989 Chevy Suburban, 350TBI. It's run like a top for the 5 years
I've had it. Suddenly it won't start. It cranks, but won't turn over. Now
I know it's either no spark or no fuel, right? Plenty of gas in the tank.
My questions are how to properly check for spark? I don't want to screw
something up, and I don't want 20,000 volts either. If I have spark, what's
next? The fuel pump? Where is it, and how difficult is it to replace?

Thanks in advance for any help.

["Doc"]

Post by alarman
I have a 1989 Chevy Suburban, 350TBI. It's run like a top for the 5 years
I've had it. Suddenly it won't start. It cranks, but won't turn over.

Now

Post by alarman
I know it's either no spark or no fuel, right? Plenty of gas in the tank.
My questions are how to properly check for spark? I don't want to screw
something up, and I don't want 20,000 volts either. If I have spark, what's
next? The fuel pump? Where is it, and how difficult is it to replace?
Thanks in advance for any help.

Your Burb is TBI so it's really easy to check for fuel delivery during
cranking. Pop off the air cleaner, you'll see the two injectors sitting on
top of the throttle body. Have someone crank the motor while you watch the
injectors. You should have a nice spray from both injectors during
cranking. No spray, problem with EFI system or fuel pump is shot. To check
fuel pump, have someone turn the key to run (but not start) while you have
yer' head pressed against the gas tank. You should hear a "bzzzzzz" for a
few seconds after the key is turned. This is the pump kicking on and
pressurizing the system for startup. The pump is located inside the gas
tank and is a bit of a pain to replace.

For spark, pull the plug wire from the center of the distributor cap (runs
from coil to cap). Stick a RUBBER HANDLED screwdriver into the boot, and
have someone crank while you touch the shaft of the screwdriver to a metal
surface. Should be lots of BLUE fireworks.

Doc

[alarman]

Post by "Doc"
Your Burb is TBI so it's really easy to check for fuel delivery during
cranking. Pop off the air cleaner, you'll see the two injectors sitting on
top of the throttle body. Have someone crank the motor while you watch the
injectors. You should have a nice spray from both injectors during
cranking. No spray, problem with EFI system or fuel pump is shot. To check
fuel pump, have someone turn the key to run (but not start) while you have
yer' head pressed against the gas tank. You should hear a "bzzzzzz" for a
few seconds after the key is turned. This is the pump kicking on and
pressurizing the system for startup. The pump is located inside the gas
tank and is a bit of a pain to replace.
For spark, pull the plug wire from the center of the distributor cap (runs
from coil to cap). Stick a RUBBER HANDLED screwdriver into the boot, and
have someone crank while you touch the shaft of the screwdriver to a metal
surface. Should be lots of BLUE fireworks.
Doc

Thanks, Doc! I'll give it a try.
Jack

[Adair Winter]

Post by "Doc"
For spark, pull the plug wire from the center of the distributor cap (runs
from coil to cap). Stick a RUBBER HANDLED screwdriver into the boot, and
have someone crank while you touch the shaft of the screwdriver to a metal
surface. Should be lots of BLUE fireworks.
Doc

Gee doc, I always liked the metal handle screw drivers!

Adair

["Doc"]

Post by Adair Winter

Post by "Doc"
For spark, pull the plug wire from the center of the distributor cap (runs
from coil to cap). Stick a RUBBER HANDLED screwdriver into the boot, and
have someone crank while you touch the shaft of the screwdriver to a metal
surface. Should be lots of BLUE fireworks.
Doc

Gee doc, I always liked the metal handle screw drivers!
Adair

Baaaaawhammm! Nuthin' like 40k+ volts to let you know you're alive eh?

Doc

[alarman]

Post by "Doc"
Baaaaawhammm! Nuthin' like 40k+ volts to let you know you're alive eh?
Doc

Hello, Doc:
Tried the screwdriver method, got no spark and replaced the coil. Still no
start. I never did see and fuel spraying in the throttle body, though I can
hear the fuel pump buzzing with the ignition on. Any ideas?
Jack

[John Alt]

Post by alarman

Post by "Doc"
Baaaaawhammm! Nuthin' like 40k+ volts to let you know you're alive eh?
Doc

Tried the screwdriver method, got no spark and replaced the coil. Still no
start. I never did see and fuel spraying in the throttle body, though I can
hear the fuel pump buzzing with the ignition on. Any ideas?
Jack

OK, let's stop throwing parts at it, unless you happen to have them
hanging around.

The system works by the distributor sending a signal to the computer,
telling it that it's spinning nice and happy and time to fire the
injectors. The computer figures out how much to fire. If you don't have
either spark or fuel, the problem is either in the distributor module
(Most likely), or the computer has a problem. If you pull out the module
on the distributor, you can take it to Autozone and they will test it
for you for free. Once you get the cap off, you pull off the rotor and
it's only two screws from being out.

BTW, the Delco is 43.99, the Wells is 29.99. Get the Delco if that's
what it needs. The Wells may have a warranty, but the quality sucks. You
MUST use heat conducting grease when you put it in, or it's life will be
very short. The replacement usually comes with a tube, but make sure
before you leave the store.

[alarman]

Post by John Alt
OK, let's stop throwing parts at it, unless you happen to have them
hanging around.
The system works by the distributor sending a signal to the computer,
telling it that it's spinning nice and happy and time to fire the
injectors. The computer figures out how much to fire. If you don't have
either spark or fuel, the problem is either in the distributor module
(Most likely), or the computer has a problem. If you pull out the module
on the distributor, you can take it to Autozone and they will test it
for you for free. Once you get the cap off, you pull off the rotor and
it's only two screws from being out.
BTW, the Delco is 43.99, the Wells is 29.99. Get the Delco if that's
what it needs. The Wells may have a warranty, but the quality sucks. You
MUST use heat conducting grease when you put it in, or it's life will be
very short. The replacement usually comes with a tube, but make sure
before you leave the store.

Thank you, John. I'll pull the module and have it tested. I had an 85 F150
that had an electronic ignition(?) module that went out a couple of times.
This the same thing?
Jack

[John Alt]

Post by alarman

Post by John Alt
OK, let's stop throwing parts at it, unless you happen to have them
hanging around.
The system works by the distributor sending a signal to the computer,
telling it that it's spinning nice and happy and time to fire the
injectors. The computer figures out how much to fire. If you don't have
either spark or fuel, the problem is either in the distributor module
(Most likely), or the computer has a problem. If you pull out the module
on the distributor, you can take it to Autozone and they will test it
for you for free. Once you get the cap off, you pull off the rotor and
it's only two screws from being out.
BTW, the Delco is 43.99, the Wells is 29.99. Get the Delco if that's
what it needs. The Wells may have a warranty, but the quality sucks. You
MUST use heat conducting grease when you put it in, or it's life will be
very short. The replacement usually comes with a tube, but make sure
before you leave the store.

Thank you, John. I'll pull the module and have it tested. I had an 85 F150
that had an electronic ignition(?) module that went out a couple of times.
This the same thing?
Jack

Yep. The F150 has it mounted externally, either on the fender or the
distributor housing. GM puts it inside.

[CJBrown]

Actually the more reliable Fords had the module on the fenderwell, but many
of them did have it distributor mounted. IIRC, They had a recall on a lot
of them due to heat related failures.

CJ

Post by John Alt

Post by alarman

Post by John Alt
OK, let's stop throwing parts at it, unless you happen to have them
hanging around.
The system works by the distributor sending a signal to the computer,
telling it that it's spinning nice and happy and time to fire the
injectors. The computer figures out how much to fire. If you don't have
either spark or fuel, the problem is either in the distributor module
(Most likely), or the computer has a problem. If you pull out the module
on the distributor, you can take it to Autozone and they will test it
for you for free. Once you get the cap off, you pull off the rotor and
it's only two screws from being out.
BTW, the Delco is 43.99, the Wells is 29.99. Get the Delco if that's
what it needs. The Wells may have a warranty, but the quality sucks. You
MUST use heat conducting grease when you put it in, or it's life will be
very short. The replacement usually comes with a tube, but make sure
before you leave the store.

Thank you, John. I'll pull the module and have it tested. I had an 85 F150
that had an electronic ignition(?) module that went out a couple of times.
This the same thing?
Jack

Yep. The F150 has it mounted externally, either on the fender or the
distributor housing. GM puts it inside.

[John Alt]

Actually the more reliable Fords...

So many straight lines, so little time...

[CJBrown]

:-P

CJ

Post by John Alt

Actually the more reliable Fords...

So many straight lines, so little time...

[alarman]

Post by John Alt
OK, let's stop throwing parts at it, unless you happen to have them
hanging around.
The system works by the distributor sending a signal to the computer,
telling it that it's spinning nice and happy and time to fire the
injectors. The computer figures out how much to fire. If you don't have
either spark or fuel, the problem is either in the distributor module
(Most likely), or the computer has a problem. If you pull out the module
on the distributor, you can take it to Autozone and they will test it
for you for free. Once you get the cap off, you pull off the rotor and
it's only two screws from being out.
BTW, the Delco is 43.99, the Wells is 29.99. Get the Delco if that's
what it needs. The Wells may have a warranty, but the quality sucks. You
MUST use heat conducting grease when you put it in, or it's life will be
very short. The replacement usually comes with a tube, but make sure
before you leave the store.

OK, I got back to the Burb today. AutoZone did test the module, and it
passed. Now I know you said not to throw parts at it, but: 1. knowing that
electronic devices sometimes test OK when they are not, and 2. being
naturally curious, I went ahead and replaced the module. Bzzzzzzz. I lose.
It still won't start. So, I am at a loss. I guess I'll have it towed to
the shop next week. Sure wish I could pinpoint the trouble. Thanks to all
who tried to help. I'll post back when I find out what happened.
Jack

[Bret Chase]

:|
:|>
:|> > For spark, pull the plug wire from the center of the distributor cap
:|(runs
:|> > from coil to cap). Stick a RUBBER HANDLED screwdriver into the boot,
:|and
:|> > have someone crank while you touch the shaft of the screwdriver to a
:|metal
:|> > surface. Should be lots of BLUE fireworks.
:|> >
:|> > Doc
:|>
:|> Gee doc, I always liked the metal handle screw drivers!
:|>
:|> Adair
:|
:|Baaaaawhammm! Nuthin' like 40k+ volts to let you know you're alive eh?
:|
:|Doc

I think the shock hurts less then the welt on the top of your head
from slamming it into underside of the hood.

-Bret

["Doc"]

Post by Bret Chase

:|
:|>
:|> > For spark, pull the plug wire from the center of the distributor cap
:|(runs
:|> > from coil to cap). Stick a RUBBER HANDLED screwdriver into the boot,
:|and
:|> > have someone crank while you touch the shaft of the screwdriver to a
:|metal
:|> > surface. Should be lots of BLUE fireworks.
:|> >
:|> > Doc
:|>
:|> Gee doc, I always liked the metal handle screw drivers!
:|>
:|> Adair
:|
:|Baaaaawhammm! Nuthin' like 40k+ volts to let you know you're alive eh?
:|
:|Doc

I think the shock hurts less then the welt on the top of your head
from slamming it into underside of the hood.
-Bret

I'm laughing my ass off cause' I've done that before! And you're right, the
hook whack hurts far worse and lingers far longer than the coil blast.

Doc

[alarman]

Post by "Doc"
I'm laughing my ass off cause' I've done that before! And you're right, the
hook whack hurts far worse and lingers far longer than the coil blast.
Doc

Gotta agree. Can't wait til the weekend when I have time to pull the dist.
I'll report back, thanks again to all for your help.
Jack

[Bret Chase]

:|
:|>
:|> >:|
:|> >:|>
:|> >:|> > For spark, pull the plug wire from the center of the distributor
:|cap
:|> >:|(runs
:|> >:|> > from coil to cap). Stick a RUBBER HANDLED screwdriver into the
:|boot,
:|> >:|and
:|> >:|> > have someone crank while you touch the shaft of the screwdriver to
:|a
:|> >:|metal
:|> >:|> > surface. Should be lots of BLUE fireworks.
:|> >:|> >
:|> >:|> > Doc
:|> >:|>
:|> >:|> Gee doc, I always liked the metal handle screw drivers!
:|> >:|>
:|> >:|> Adair
:|> >:|
:|> >:|Baaaaawhammm! Nuthin' like 40k+ volts to let you know you're alive eh?
:|> >:|
:|> >:|Doc
:|>
:|> I think the shock hurts less then the welt on the top of your head
:|> from slamming it into underside of the hood.
:|>
:|> -Bret
:|
:|I'm laughing my ass off cause' I've done that before! And you're right, the
:|hook whack hurts far worse and lingers far longer than the coil blast.
:|
:|Doc
:|
:|
:|>
:|

the worst shock I ever got was from a leaking spark plug wire on a 250
chevy in an old Trojan loader...... it wouldn't have been so bad if I
hadn't fallen off of the damn thing. I've been leery of grabbing a
plug wire ever since (and that was probably 15 years ago.)

-Bret

["Doc"]

Post by Bret Chase
the worst shock I ever got was from a leaking spark plug wire on a 250
chevy in an old Trojan loader...... it wouldn't have been so bad if I
hadn't fallen off of the damn thing. I've been leery of grabbing a
plug wire ever since (and that was probably 15 years ago.)
-Bret

He he he, shit like that leave an irrevocable scar on one's mind eh? I've
been blasted lots of times <you'd think I'd learn> but never fell off as a
result! I used to be pretty carefree working under vehicles until one
almost fell on me.

Buddy's truck was jacked up in the driveway, jackstands on either side of
rear axle. I was underneath working on the rear end when a SINKHOLE,
underneath the asphalt decided to give it up. Jackstand went straight into
the ground and the truck came a tumblin'. I made it out a millisecond
before she hit bottom. Now I'm paranoid. Plywood under the jackstands,
floor jack+old tires as backups along the frame rails.

;-)

Doc

[Lonely G-Monkey]

Post by "Doc"

Post by Bret Chase
the worst shock I ever got was from a leaking spark plug wire on a 250
chevy in an old Trojan loader...... it wouldn't have been so bad if I
hadn't fallen off of the damn thing. I've been leery of grabbing a
plug wire ever since (and that was probably 15 years ago.)
-Bret

He he he, shit like that leave an irrevocable scar on one's mind eh? I've
been blasted lots of times <you'd think I'd learn> but never fell off as a
result! I used to be pretty carefree working under vehicles until one
almost fell on me.
Buddy's truck was jacked up in the driveway, jackstands on either side of
rear axle. I was underneath working on the rear end when a SINKHOLE,
underneath the asphalt decided to give it up. Jackstand went straight into
the ground and the truck came a tumblin'. I made it out a millisecond
before she hit bottom. Now I'm paranoid. Plywood under the jackstands,
floor jack+old tires as backups along the frame rails.
;-)
Doc

At least yours wasn't UTTER stupidity!
"Why wont this frikken U-joint pop out! I have the clamps all the way
off"
"Shit she be rollin!"

Good thing my father drilled into my head "always know where your
going to be going if something goes bad." I was able to get out, and
then I had to run after the truck and stop it before it hit a tree. I
stopped with about 1/16 of an inch to spare (literally).

I always put a tire under the truck. I was always tought, jack it up
and put uncrushable shit under it. We have an old steely and an 8x8
that work well. I mean, even when I change a tire I always have at
least one tire underneath the frame.

Very excited though, just sprang for a 3ton (21" lift) Mack (as in the
truck) floor jack, and four 6ton Mack jack stands. $120.00

~TLGM

[Lonely G-Monkey]

Post by Lonely G-Monkey
At least yours wasn't UTTER stupidity!
"Why wont this frikken U-joint pop out! I have the clamps all the way
off"
"Shit she be rollin!"
Good thing my father drilled into my head "always know where your
going to be going if something goes bad." I was able to get out, and
then I had to run after the truck and stop it before it hit a tree. I
stopped with about 1/16 of an inch to spare (literally).
I always put a tire under the truck. I was always tought, jack it up
and put uncrushable shit under it. We have an old steely and an 8x8
that work well. I mean, even when I change a tire I always have at
least one tire underneath the frame.
Very excited though, just sprang for a 3ton (21" lift) Mack (as in the
truck) floor jack, and four 6ton Mack jack stands. $120.00
~TLGM

The group went strangely silent....

~TLGM

[Jimmy]

replying to "Doc", Jimmy wrote:
Doc my fuel pump is pumping but still not starting on its own I can start it
with starter fluid and it'll keep running but as soon as as soon as I let it
idle or shut off and have to restart it with starting fluid already replaced
computer and fuel injector relay fuel filter is new. any suggestions would be
very very helpful


--
for full context, visit https://www.motorsforum.com/chevy_trucks/89-suburban-won-t-start-24630-.htm

[boogieman]

is it a auto or a standard

Post by alarman
I have a 1989 Chevy Suburban, 350TBI. It's run like a top for the 5 years
I've had it. Suddenly it won't start. It cranks, but won't turn over. Now
I know it's either no spark or no fuel, right? Plenty of gas in the tank.
My questions are how to properly check for spark? I don't want to screw
something up, and I don't want 20,000 volts either. If I have spark, what's
next? The fuel pump? Where is it, and how difficult is it to replace?
Thanks in advance for any help.

["Doc"]

Post by boogieman
is it a auto or a standard

Only difference that would make is the neutral-park safety switch (auto has
one, standard doesn't), but if it's cranking it ain't the switch as the
switch kills the starter altogether.

Doc

Post by boogieman

Post by alarman
I have a 1989 Chevy Suburban, 350TBI. It's run like a top for the 5 years
I've had it. Suddenly it won't start. It cranks, but won't turn over.

Now

Post by boogieman

Post by alarman
I know it's either no spark or no fuel, right? Plenty of gas in the tank.
My questions are how to properly check for spark? I don't want to screw
something up, and I don't want 20,000 volts either. If I have spark, what's
next? The fuel pump? Where is it, and how difficult is it to replace?
Thanks in advance for any help.

[fly in the ointment]

Post by boogieman
is it a auto or a standard

Auto.

Post by boogieman

Post by alarman
I have a 1989 Chevy Suburban, 350TBI. It's run like a top for the 5 years
I've had it. Suddenly it won't start. It cranks, but won't turn over.

Now

Post by boogieman

Post by alarman
I know it's either no spark or no fuel, right? Plenty of gas in the tank.
My questions are how to properly check for spark? I don't want to screw
something up, and I don't want 20,000 volts either. If I have spark, what's
next? The fuel pump? Where is it, and how difficult is it to replace?
Thanks in advance for any help.