Discussion:
Questions on 2005 2500HD Diesel
(too old to reply)
d***@juno_nospam.com
2004-11-03 04:26:09 UTC
Permalink
OK, since you've got some diesel guys in here...

I bought a 2005 2500HD, Diesel, 4X4 crew cab short bed with the Allison
automatic about 2 months ago. Replaced a Dodge 5.9L, 1/2 ton auto...

We put 500 miles on it then hooked up the small 5th wheel and made a couple
weekend trips locally.

Then at the end of September headed out and went 5950 miles in 5 weeks, just
returning yesterday.

I did an initial oil change at 1600 miles and I"ll be doing one tomorrow at
about 7500...

I"m also going to get the tires rotated. Gave it a thorough bath today to get
Montana, Utah, Wyoming, and Colorado off...

I've looked at the maintenance schedules and I'm wondering how optimistic they
are? It LOOKS like I'd be doing an oil change about every 10K if I followed the
oil life indicator - which in a gas engine would be a major no-no... What about
the diesel? Do I treat like I've always treated other machines and change the
oil at about half the recommended intervals? I'm already figuring on having to
use the severe duty maintenance intervals so it'll get a transmission server
every 25K instead of 50K. And a fuel filter every 10K? What other maintenance
actions should I add?

What about additives? I talked to a diesel guy at the local Chevy dealer and he
recommended dumping their additive into the fuel tank with every oil change...
Good, bad, indifferent?

Differentials... Do I need to change the fluid there now? Soon? Never? On
the Dodge I changed the diff fluid every 12K, which was the severe dute
schedule. What about the Chevy? Apparently the rear uses synthetic.
Should/can I put synthetic in both front and rear? Any benefit to this?

How about engine oil? I ran the Dodge on Mobil 1. Didn't seem to do any good
as far as longevity OR mileage... What about the Chevy diesel? Any point in
synthetic engine oil?

Since we tow I've been thinking I might want to add the exhaust gas temperature
and boost gauges. Good idea? Waste?

And the last one I can think of right now - shutdown... Do I need to do
anything different when shutting this thing down because of the turbo? Let it
idle for a while? Do I need the boost gauge to give me meaningful info?

After 7500 miles, and about 5500 towing, my wife is in love with this thing...
She may NEVER go back to a gas truck! We DO have one complaint... The cup
holders in the middle of the bench seat could be more convenient! They're a
little low.
Dom
2004-11-03 23:55:13 UTC
Permalink
See my post below from 11/1/04 re: Fuel Gelling in Winter.
The group gave very useful information on that topic.

I've heard a product called STANADYNE is good for all year round. There is
docs on the web site
http://www.stanadyne.com describing the products, and indicating GM
approves of it. I'd be very interested in feedback on which STANADYNE
product anyone has used.

BTW, I heard about this product while inquiring about fuel gelling, and fuel
line freezes. That bothered me a bit - I get this great truck, can pull what
I need, get decent mileage.. and lines freeze in the winter? I"ll get this
stuff if it prevents no starts, getting stuck, ice forming in the fuel
filter, and whatever else.

Regards,
Dom
Post by d***@juno_nospam.com
OK, since you've got some diesel guys in here...
I bought a 2005 2500HD, Diesel, 4X4 crew cab short bed with the Allison
automatic about 2 months ago. Replaced a Dodge 5.9L, 1/2 ton auto...
We put 500 miles on it then hooked up the small 5th wheel and made a couple
weekend trips locally.
Then at the end of September headed out and went 5950 miles in 5 weeks, just
returning yesterday.
I did an initial oil change at 1600 miles and I"ll be doing one tomorrow at
about 7500...
I"m also going to get the tires rotated. Gave it a thorough bath today to get
Montana, Utah, Wyoming, and Colorado off...
I've looked at the maintenance schedules and I'm wondering how optimistic they
are? It LOOKS like I'd be doing an oil change about every 10K if I followed the
oil life indicator - which in a gas engine would be a major no-no... What about
the diesel? Do I treat like I've always treated other machines and change the
oil at about half the recommended intervals? I'm already figuring on having to
use the severe duty maintenance intervals so it'll get a transmission server
every 25K instead of 50K. And a fuel filter every 10K? What other maintenance
actions should I add?
What about additives? I talked to a diesel guy at the local Chevy dealer and he
recommended dumping their additive into the fuel tank with every oil change...
Good, bad, indifferent?
Differentials... Do I need to change the fluid there now? Soon? Never?
On
the Dodge I changed the diff fluid every 12K, which was the severe dute
schedule. What about the Chevy? Apparently the rear uses synthetic.
Should/can I put synthetic in both front and rear? Any benefit to this?
How about engine oil? I ran the Dodge on Mobil 1. Didn't seem to do any good
as far as longevity OR mileage... What about the Chevy diesel? Any point in
synthetic engine oil?
Since we tow I've been thinking I might want to add the exhaust gas temperature
and boost gauges. Good idea? Waste?
And the last one I can think of right now - shutdown... Do I need to do
anything different when shutting this thing down because of the turbo?
Let it
idle for a while? Do I need the boost gauge to give me meaningful info?
After 7500 miles, and about 5500 towing, my wife is in love with this thing...
She may NEVER go back to a gas truck! We DO have one complaint... The cup
holders in the middle of the bench seat could be more convenient! They're a
little low.
Greg Surratt
2004-11-04 09:17:15 UTC
Permalink
Post by Dom
BTW, I heard about this product while inquiring about fuel gelling, and fuel
line freezes. That bothered me a bit - I get this great truck, can pull what
I need, get decent mileage.. and lines freeze in the winter? I"ll get this
stuff if it prevents no starts, getting stuck, ice forming in the fuel
filter, and whatever else.
Regards,
Dom
It all comes down to making sure you know that the fuel you are
putting in the truck is of the quality your truck requires. I don't
mean 40 or 45 cetane, I'm talking about things like how much fuel does
your local station sell? If they don't have a high turnover, ugly
stuff tends to grow in the underground tanks that eventually winds up
in your filters. Do they blend in the winter to ensure that the gel
point is in step with the anticipated cold temperatures?

Rather than drive 3 blocks to the closest station (where I have NEVER
seen a vehicle at the diesel pump, I drive 12 miles out of town to the
truck stop where I may have to wait for a turn at the pumps. (FWIW,
it's also about 15 cents/gal cheaper ;-)

Greg
Jonathan Race
2004-11-04 01:32:32 UTC
Permalink
You ask a lot of reasonable questions, but I'm not opinionated enough (or
qualified) to give you answers on several of them, so I'll just touch on one
topic - synthetic motor oil and turbos. I own a 2004 Chevy 2500HD crewcab
with the diesel and Allison tranny, and the reason I run synthetic oil in my
truck is mostly for the turbocharger. Now I realize that synthetics will
have better lower temperature performance, decrease engine wear on cold
weather start-up, have a lower pour-point, etc. but living in sunny Central
Florida mostly negates cold weather issues. What I'm concerned about is the
high temps of the turbo, especially on shut down after pulling or high speed
runs. Standard oils when exposed to the high temps of a turbos bearings -
especially if they contain a lot of products of combustion - will burn and
form a coke residue on the bearings if they are not allowed to cool down
properly. I use synthetics specifically because they resist much higher
temperatures and will not "coke up" my turbo bearings.

On the flip side, the turbocharger is typically at the top of the oil loop
and is the last to receive an adequate oil supply during cold start up.
This is the main reason why I cringe when I see guys race their turbocharged
motors immediately after start up in order to warm it up, build up air
pressure, or whatever. I use a synthetic oil because it helps reduce this
damage.

I won't make any recommendations as to brand of synthetic oil. I personally
believe that all the major name brands offer far more protection than you
will ever need in your truck, and I use the brand I do because it is the
most convenient to obtain in 15w-40 for me. I change it every 5000 miles.

Just my two cents worth.

Cheers - Jonathan
--
Jonathan A. Race
Lieutenant, EMS Supervisor
Orange County (FL) Fire Rescue Department

(This message may contain personal opinions and/or information not related
to my employment or employer)
Post by d***@juno_nospam.com
OK, since you've got some diesel guys in here...
I bought a 2005 2500HD, Diesel, 4X4 crew cab short bed with the Allison
automatic about 2 months ago. Replaced a Dodge 5.9L, 1/2 ton auto...
We put 500 miles on it then hooked up the small 5th wheel and made a couple
weekend trips locally.
Then at the end of September headed out and went 5950 miles in 5 weeks, just
returning yesterday.
I did an initial oil change at 1600 miles and I"ll be doing one tomorrow at
about 7500...
I"m also going to get the tires rotated. Gave it a thorough bath today to get
Montana, Utah, Wyoming, and Colorado off...
I've looked at the maintenance schedules and I'm wondering how optimistic they
are? It LOOKS like I'd be doing an oil change about every 10K if I followed the
oil life indicator - which in a gas engine would be a major no-no... What about
the diesel? Do I treat like I've always treated other machines and change the
oil at about half the recommended intervals? I'm already figuring on having to
use the severe duty maintenance intervals so it'll get a transmission server
every 25K instead of 50K. And a fuel filter every 10K? What other maintenance
actions should I add?
What about additives? I talked to a diesel guy at the local Chevy dealer and he
recommended dumping their additive into the fuel tank with every oil change...
Good, bad, indifferent?
Differentials... Do I need to change the fluid there now? Soon? Never?
On
the Dodge I changed the diff fluid every 12K, which was the severe dute
schedule. What about the Chevy? Apparently the rear uses synthetic.
Should/can I put synthetic in both front and rear? Any benefit to this?
How about engine oil? I ran the Dodge on Mobil 1. Didn't seem to do any good
as far as longevity OR mileage... What about the Chevy diesel? Any point in
synthetic engine oil?
Since we tow I've been thinking I might want to add the exhaust gas temperature
and boost gauges. Good idea? Waste?
And the last one I can think of right now - shutdown... Do I need to do
anything different when shutting this thing down because of the turbo?
Let it
idle for a while? Do I need the boost gauge to give me meaningful info?
After 7500 miles, and about 5500 towing, my wife is in love with this thing...
She may NEVER go back to a gas truck! We DO have one complaint... The cup
holders in the middle of the bench seat could be more convenient! They're a
little low.
kellan
2004-11-04 22:20:23 UTC
Permalink
For you guys with diesel trucks, do yourselves a favor and go to
www.thedieselplace.com . A wealth of info primarily about our ( Duramax )
trucks.
Personally, I change my oil/filter @ 5k miles, fuel filter and Allison spin
on filter @ 10k miles. There are many different opinions on this. By the
way, it's a good idea to dump and refill both diff's at 500- 1000 miles with
a good synthetic.

Hope this helps !
Post by d***@juno_nospam.com
OK, since you've got some diesel guys in here...
I bought a 2005 2500HD, Diesel, 4X4 crew cab short bed with the Allison
automatic about 2 months ago. Replaced a Dodge 5.9L, 1/2 ton auto...
We put 500 miles on it then hooked up the small 5th wheel and made a couple
weekend trips locally.
Then at the end of September headed out and went 5950 miles in 5 weeks, just
returning yesterday.
I did an initial oil change at 1600 miles and I"ll be doing one tomorrow at
about 7500...
I"m also going to get the tires rotated. Gave it a thorough bath today to get
Montana, Utah, Wyoming, and Colorado off...
I've looked at the maintenance schedules and I'm wondering how optimistic they
are? It LOOKS like I'd be doing an oil change about every 10K if I followed the
oil life indicator - which in a gas engine would be a major no-no... What about
the diesel? Do I treat like I've always treated other machines and change the
oil at about half the recommended intervals? I'm already figuring on having to
use the severe duty maintenance intervals so it'll get a transmission server
every 25K instead of 50K. And a fuel filter every 10K? What other maintenance
actions should I add?
What about additives? I talked to a diesel guy at the local Chevy dealer and he
recommended dumping their additive into the fuel tank with every oil change...
Good, bad, indifferent?
Differentials... Do I need to change the fluid there now? Soon? Never?
On
the Dodge I changed the diff fluid every 12K, which was the severe dute
schedule. What about the Chevy? Apparently the rear uses synthetic.
Should/can I put synthetic in both front and rear? Any benefit to this?
How about engine oil? I ran the Dodge on Mobil 1. Didn't seem to do any good
as far as longevity OR mileage... What about the Chevy diesel? Any point in
synthetic engine oil?
Since we tow I've been thinking I might want to add the exhaust gas temperature
and boost gauges. Good idea? Waste?
And the last one I can think of right now - shutdown... Do I need to do
anything different when shutting this thing down because of the turbo?
Let it
idle for a while? Do I need the boost gauge to give me meaningful info?
After 7500 miles, and about 5500 towing, my wife is in love with this thing...
She may NEVER go back to a gas truck! We DO have one complaint... The cup
holders in the middle of the bench seat could be more convenient! They're a
little low.
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d***@juno_nospam.com
2004-11-05 05:37:34 UTC
Permalink
Thanks for the info guys....

My understanding is there isn't a Mobil 1 synthetic for diesels... So, I'm
gonna have to find something different...

As far as changing the spin-off filter on the transmission, my local NAPA can't
find a listing for the thing. I checked at the Chevy dealer and BELIEVE IT OR
NOT, they want $29 for the spin-off transmission filter... 'Course they also
wanted $24 for the oil filter...

What synthetic oil is everybody using? And what synthetic gear lube? Did I
read the manual right that the rear is an 80-90 and the front is a 75-90?


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websurfer
2004-11-05 06:23:16 UTC
Permalink
Post by d***@juno_nospam.com
Thanks for the info guys....
My understanding is there isn't a Mobil 1 synthetic for diesels... So, I'm
gonna have to find something different...
As far as changing the spin-off filter on the transmission, my local NAPA can't
find a listing for the thing. I checked at the Chevy dealer and BELIEVE IT OR
NOT, they want $29 for the spin-off transmission filter... 'Course they also
wanted $24 for the oil filter...
What synthetic oil is everybody using? And what synthetic gear lube? Did I
read the manual right that the rear is an 80-90 and the front is a 75-90?
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Hi. I am using Mobil 1 Del-Vac for DIESELS synthetic... specifically
for diesels... not sure why you're under the impression that Mobil doesn't
make a synthetic for diesels... you may have to look for it, but it's out
there. Hope this helps.
Greg Surratt
2004-11-05 09:32:15 UTC
Permalink
Post by d***@juno_nospam.com
Thanks for the info guys....
My understanding is there isn't a Mobil 1 synthetic for diesels... So, I'm
gonna have to find something different...
What synthetic oil is everybody using? And what synthetic gear lube? Did I
read the manual right that the rear is an 80-90 and the front is a 75-90?
If you can't find the Mobil 1, consider Castrol Premium Blue 2000
synthetic. I get mine at the Cummins engine dealer.
Hattmakr
2004-11-07 21:38:16 UTC
Permalink
Post by Greg Surratt
If you can't find the Mobil 1, consider Castrol Premium Blue 2000
synthetic. I get mine at the Cummins engine dealer.
Premium Blue 2000 is made by Valvoline and can also be found at NAPA.

AW
Greg Surratt
2004-11-08 09:49:59 UTC
Permalink
Post by Hattmakr
Post by Greg Surratt
If you can't find the Mobil 1, consider Castrol Premium Blue 2000
synthetic. I get mine at the Cummins engine dealer.
Premium Blue 2000 is made by Valvoline and can also be found at NAPA.
AW
You're right. I should have trotted out to the garage and looked at
the box first. ;-0
Dave
2004-11-05 10:37:45 UTC
Permalink
I use Red Line synthetics for all the lubes required - engine, trans,
transfer case, diffs, wheel bearings, etc. See my follow-on post
"Duramax Diesel"

Dave
Post by d***@juno_nospam.com
Thanks for the info guys....
My understanding is there isn't a Mobil 1 synthetic for diesels... So, I'm
gonna have to find something different...
As far as changing the spin-off filter on the transmission, my local NAPA can't
find a listing for the thing. I checked at the Chevy dealer and BELIEVE IT OR
NOT, they want $29 for the spin-off transmission filter... 'Course they also
wanted $24 for the oil filter...
What synthetic oil is everybody using? And what synthetic gear lube? Did I
read the manual right that the rear is an 80-90 and the front is a 75-90?
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Jonathan Race
2004-11-05 13:22:22 UTC
Permalink
You can find folks selling filters for the Allison (and engine oil filters
for your Duramax as well) on eBay. An Allison filter runs about $12 a pop.

Mobil-1 does indeed make a 15w-40 and 30wt fully synthetic oil for your
diesel, it's just hard (danm near impossible, which is unfortunate) to find
the 15w-40 in my area. You can try the local truck stops if you have an
interstate nearby. Valvoline makes a fully synthetic 15w-40 which I have
found available at my local auto parts dealer in one-gallon jugs. There is
also Amsoil, if you want to deal with them. Shipping adds to the overall
cost, which for me runs it up to over $6.00/qt when buying a 2 1/2 gallon
jug - the exact quantity you need for your Duramax. It costs more, but the
delivery is quick and they always have it in stock and is just a phone call
away. Finding a quality fully synthetic 15w-40 can sometimes be a
hit-or-miss proposition getting it when I need it.

Cheers - Jonathan
--
Jonathan A. Race
Lieutenant, EMS Supervisor
Orange County (FL) Fire Rescue Department

(This message may contain personal opinions and/or information not related
to my employment or employer)
Post by d***@juno_nospam.com
Thanks for the info guys....
My understanding is there isn't a Mobil 1 synthetic for diesels... So, I'm
gonna have to find something different...
As far as changing the spin-off filter on the transmission, my local NAPA can't
find a listing for the thing. I checked at the Chevy dealer and BELIEVE IT OR
NOT, they want $29 for the spin-off transmission filter... 'Course they also
wanted $24 for the oil filter...
What synthetic oil is everybody using? And what synthetic gear lube? Did I
read the manual right that the rear is an 80-90 and the front is a 75-90?
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jwlbal
2004-11-06 01:28:23 UTC
Permalink
The last time I bought an oil filter at my dealer, it was $15. Auto Zone
has it for less.
Post by d***@juno_nospam.com
Thanks for the info guys....
My understanding is there isn't a Mobil 1 synthetic for diesels... So, I'm
gonna have to find something different...
As far as changing the spin-off filter on the transmission, my local NAPA can't
find a listing for the thing. I checked at the Chevy dealer and BELIEVE IT OR
NOT, they want $29 for the spin-off transmission filter... 'Course they also
wanted $24 for the oil filter...
What synthetic oil is everybody using? And what synthetic gear lube? Did I
read the manual right that the rear is an 80-90 and the front is a 75-90?
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d***@juno_nospam.com
2004-11-08 04:06:58 UTC
Permalink
Thanks for the info guys... It looks like I'll probably do the synthetic thing
next change... I just did it with the normal Rotella T this time...

I'm gonna have to find a source for the transmission filter though, 'cause I
sure can't see paying $29 for the thing from the dealer...

'Course, these are the same people that think the differential grease should be
$30/quart... They've gotta be kidding...


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Hattmakr
2004-11-09 01:23:29 UTC
Permalink
Post by d***@juno_nospam.com
Thanks for the info guys... It looks like I'll probably do the synthetic thing
next change... I just did it with the normal Rotella T this time...
I'm gonna have to find a source for the transmission filter though, 'cause I
sure can't see paying $29 for the thing from the dealer...
'Course, these are the same people that think the differential grease should be
$30/quart... They've gotta be kidding...
Good luck in your search. I went looking for an air filter for the 03
Cummins/Dodge. Stopped by NAPA...$32 and change. Went by the local dealer...$28
and change. First time I have ever bought an air filter from any dealer.

Advance Auto carries Mobil 1 75w90 gear oil for $8.19 a quart, IIRC. Be careful
removing the pan from your AAM rear axle and you'll be able to re-use the
gasket. Not sure about the front axle as I have 2WD.

AW
K
2004-11-09 03:09:59 UTC
Permalink
Post by d***@juno_nospam.com
Thanks for the info guys... It looks like I'll probably do the synthetic thing
next change... I just did it with the normal Rotella T this time...
I'm gonna have to find a source for the transmission filter though, 'cause I
sure can't see paying $29 for the thing from the dealer...
'Course, these are the same people that think the differential grease should be
$30/quart... They've gotta be kidding...
<<SNIPPED HERE>>

If you are talking about the spin on filter, I just paid $15 at the dealer
today for the Allison's external filter. That was with a discount and they
are still making money on that! Careful when buying that filter. I purchased
a Wix filter over the weekend and it would only work if I left the doughnut
type magnet out that was on my original filter. Don't know if they all have
the magnet or not, but the Wix filter's holes were almost completely under
the magnet. The OEM's holes are closer to the outside edge of the filter and
allow flow past the magnet. REALLY glad this is a very simple thing to
change since I had to put the old one right back on Sunday until I could
return the one and purchase the OEM filter....
SpaseKase
2004-12-09 05:31:01 UTC
Permalink
Find a truck repair shop that specializes in Allison transmissions. I pay
about $8 for mine in Pensacola, FL at a small hole in the wall place that
does nothing but Cummins and Allison stuff. They even warned me, DON'T
FORGET THE MAGNET!!

Synthetic oil...there's always the Rotella T...comes in both normal and
synthetic. Available at Wally World.
Post by K
Post by d***@juno_nospam.com
Thanks for the info guys... It looks like I'll probably do the
synthetic
Post by K
Post by d***@juno_nospam.com
thing
next change... I just did it with the normal Rotella T this time...
I'm gonna have to find a source for the transmission filter though,
'cause
Post by K
Post by d***@juno_nospam.com
I
sure can't see paying $29 for the thing from the dealer...
'Course, these are the same people that think the differential grease should be
$30/quart... They've gotta be kidding...
<<SNIPPED HERE>>
If you are talking about the spin on filter, I just paid $15 at the dealer
today for the Allison's external filter. That was with a discount and they
are still making money on that! Careful when buying that filter. I purchased
a Wix filter over the weekend and it would only work if I left the doughnut
type magnet out that was on my original filter. Don't know if they all have
the magnet or not, but the Wix filter's holes were almost completely under
the magnet. The OEM's holes are closer to the outside edge of the filter and
allow flow past the magnet. REALLY glad this is a very simple thing to
change since I had to put the old one right back on Sunday until I could
return the one and purchase the OEM filter....
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